Utah Road Trip: off the beaten path
Updated: Nov 14, 2022
In October 2020, I took an amazing solo road trip that took me through parts of New Mexico, Utah, and Arizona, with the majority of my time spent in Utah. In an effort to save money and also socially distance the best I could, I shoved a foam mattress in the back of my Subaru, filled up a cooler with provisions, and spent all but one night boondocking. For those who aren’t familiar with boondocking, it is the practice of camping for free outside of developed campgrounds. It generally means no amenities, and for me, often no cell service. To be able to just park my car off the grid, snuggle under my blanket in the back, and stare at the stars from my sunroof (or moonroof as Subaru likes to call it) is pure bliss.
I could talk about the joys of dispersed camping all day, but back to the adventures. I visited a lot of National Parks and NPS units while on my trip, but I also explored many places that were somewhat outside of the typical “Grand Circle” road trip stops. So before I start rambling about car camping again, here are some of the fun, slightly off-the-beaten-path stops I made while cruising around Utah.
Mexican Hat
The tiny town of Mexican Hat is named after a balanced rock that - you guessed it - is shaped like a sombrero. While the town itself isn’t much to look at, the natural and not-so-natural attractions surrounding it certainly are. The Mexican Hat formation is easy to find as it’s just off the main highway and can be found on both Apple and Google Maps.
Moki Dugway
A “dugway” is a term that refers to a road that has been carved out of the side of a steep hill. The Moki Dugway is perhaps one of the most famous and most photogenic in the US, seemingly taunting other dugways in its ability to turn even the most steel-nerved drivers into white knucklers. The dugway itself is part of the larger State Route 261, which begins near Mexican Hat and ends at Natural Bridges National Monument. The name “Moki” comes from the Spanish word moqui, which was a term used by 18th century Spanish explorers to describe the Puebloan indigenous people in this area and their culture. The road itself is a graded dirt road that switchbacks 1100 feet up from the valley to the top of Cedar Mesa. I drove it first in the dark as I was camping at the top at Muley Point and had arrived after sunset. It was...interesting to say the least! Driving down in the daylight though was loads of fun and such a thrill! There was a little pullout not far from the top which led to a great spot for photos of the dugway as well as an overlook of the Valley of the Gods.
Muley Point
I almost didn’t want to mention this place as it is still relatively unknown. But the information is already out there and I imagine it will become quite crowded in the next few years. This overlook within the Glen Canyon National Recreation Area has genuinely some of the most beautiful canyon views I’ve ever seen, and is a great reward for making it up the Moki Dugway alive! The parking area also allows free dispersed camping which was a big bonus as the stars were just spectacular; the Milky Way was definitely showing off that night. The one downside to camping here was the mice. As cute as their little faces looked when they would freeze in the beam of my headlamp, I did not appreciate how aggressive they were at trying to get a hold of my food. After several had decided it was okay to run across my feet, I called it a night and ate my dinner and enjoyed the stars from my car. That being said, one of the great things about staying here overnight was the easy access I had to watching the sunrise over the canyon. Walking up to the edge as the sun’s glow warmed up the canyon and Monument Valley in the distance provided a peaceful stillness that is rare these days. Bonus: sunrises are mice-free.
Goosenecks State Park
As an amateur geology nerd, I was really excited to see this place. The state park offers little more than an overlook, a toilet, and camping, but it is well worth the $5 entrance fee to see the world’s best example of entrenched meandering. *Skip the next few sentences if you don’t care about geology.* As you’ve likely seen, slow moving rivers on flat land tend to meander over time, creating their squiggly appearance when viewed from above. An entrenched meander, like the ones of the San Juan River seen here, forms when the land surrounding the river begins to rise up. In this particular case, the lifting of the Colorado Plateau some 70 to 30 million years ago caused the already meandering river to pick up speed, thus increasing the downcutting rate and carving deeper and deeper into the bedrock. The result? An incredible geologic phenomenon that we get to gawk at from 1000 feet above the river. From here, you can see not one, not two, but THREE goosenecks!
Valley of the Gods:
Some call this place “Little Monument Valley,” but really the Valley of the Gods has its own unique stunning collection of mesas and other gorgeous desert scenery. A 17 mile dirt and gravel road that starts near the base of the Moki Dugway and ends at Hwy 163 (two-way) takes drivers slowly through rock formations with intriguing names such as Battleship Rock, Rooster Butte, and Castle Butte. Unlike the more well-known Monument Valley that is run by the Navajo Nation (and consequently closed due to COVID), this area is managed by the Bureau of Land Management. Also unlike Monument Valley, traffic is much more bearable and despite its vastness, feels more intimate. As a nod to fairly recent events, it was once part of the infamous Bears Ears National Monument that was controversially slashed by former President Trump. Hopefully it will be included once again.
Edge of the Cedars State Park
Located in Blanding, UT, this hidden gem can be found off of Hwy 163 on your way from the Monument Valley area to Moab. It boasts one of the largest displays of Ancestral Puebloan pottery in its museum. Being able to see the impressive craftsmanship of so many intact pieces was such a privilege. The state park also preserves a Puebloan village with an intact kiva that visitors can enter (respectfully). As these ancient kivas were used in Native American spiritual ceremonies, it is very rare to be able to go into one - another reason why this park stands out. If you are someone interested in cultural history, this is a must see.
Kodachrome Basin State Park
I’m going to be honest here, I didn’t fall in love with this place, despite the fact that so many people rave about it. I think it’s partially because I had just come from Bryce Canyon which is so visually stunning that this park was a bit of a let down. That being said, it did have several family-friendly hikes and what appeared to be a really nice campground with showers. I hiked the Angel’s Palace Trail which was only 1.5 miles and did showcase some neat rock features and views. I wouldn’t go out of my way to return, but go check it out for yourself!
Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park
I entered the park at sunrise, and enjoyed having the cool dunes to myself before the ATVs were allowed to roam the dune field. The sand really is a lovely pink color, but it is best experienced either in the early morning or late afternoon light for the full effect. I had a lot of fun running and jumping off of the dunes! The park does have an extensive campground (with excellent showers non-campers can pay for!), but I wouldn’t recommend camping here unless you bring an ATV due to the noise. I boondocked outside of this park on the soft pink sand surrounded by trees which was absolutely wonderful.
Kanab Sand Caves
These are literally just off the road, which explains why they were so crowded. The hike does involve some light scrambling to reach the caves, but there were lots of kids and adults in inappropriate hiking shoes that handled it just fine. The caves are formed from wind-eroded sandstone and are delightful to walk through. Since it doesn’t require much time to explore nor any major detours, I would definitely recommend a visit. But prepare to be disappointed in humanity when you see the thousands of names carved into the soft rock. There were parents actively encouraging and filming their kids destroying the rock; I don’t know why they thought this was okay and I called them out on it. Genuine mistakes can be made, but I don’t tolerate deliberate destruction. Don’t be like them! *steps off soapbox*
The Belly of the Dragon
This small “hike” actually takes you through a man-made tunnel that was originally a water culvert, but the photo ops are pretty great! I also heard it lovingly referred to as the “Colonoscopy Trail” which perhaps may be a more accurate description of the tunnel. The tunnel can be found off of Hwy 89 not far from the Sand Caves, and is another great one to take the kids on.
Honorable Mention:
Lake Powell and the Glen Canyon Dam
Okay, I know this is in Arizona, but it was a quick stop on the way home from Utah. There are a couple of lake overlooks along Lakeshore Drive, as well as an overlook of the Glen Canyon Dam. Someday I’d like to do a tour of the dam, but the damn dam tour was closed this time due to COVID (please tell me someone got that reference). Looking forward to coming back and exploring more of what Page, AZ, has to offer!
Have you been to any of these places? Comment your favorite spots below!
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