Palo Duro Canyon State Park

I wasn’t too thrilled about moving to Texas. I mean, don’t get me wrong, I absolutely love my residency program and the people in it, but I definitely debated in my head (and to whoever would listen) about the merits of choosing a residency program I felt I belonged at over a place I would’ve loved to have lived in. You already know how the story ends: I landed in a city that is flat and severely lacking in greenery, but with amazing medical training. As such, I take every opportunity possible to get out of town to go exploring. When a “golden weekend” came around (resident slang for having both Saturday and Sunday off, known by most people as just “a weekend”), I hopped in my car to check out the second largest canyon in the United States: Palo Duro Canyon.

After exploring the nearby Lake Meredith National Recreation Area and Alibates Flint Quarries National Monument, I headed into the state park in the late afternoon, looking forward to some good hiking and good scenery. I was not disappointed! Texas, you’ve outdone yourself with this one! There were several overlooks along the main scenic drive with many short trails leading to spots overlooking the canyon. The CCC Trail and the adjoining Triassic Trail in particular were great because they are fairly short at 0.43 and 0.23 miles respectively, and travel over a cliff top that juts out into the canyon.

The canyon itself is fascinating and could not be more different than the more well-known Grand Canyon. Palo Duro Canyon is full of gorgeous colors like the Grand Canyon, but the greenery of the desert plants stands out strikingly against the orange and reds of the Texas desert soil. While the Grand Canyon seems intimidating, almost too immense to comprehend, Palo Duro feels more accessible. A scenic drive winds from the canyon rim to the bottom, allowing visitors to journey through 240 million years of geology, all from within the air conditioned comfort of their cars.

The first afternoon I was there, I headed off to do the Rock Garden Trail, a 4.8 mile RT hike that climbs around 700 feet from a boulder field to the canyon rim. I particularly enjoyed this trail as it offered an entirely different perspective of the canyon compared to the canyon rim viewpoints, plus it was incredibly quiet and empty. The undulating trail was steep but manageable, and its openness offered me unobstructed views of the multi-colored canyon walls that appeared as if someone had turned the “saturation” filter way up. Perhaps my favorite part of this trail was the rippled hillside that seemed splashed with red, orange, and yellow paints. It reminded me a lot of the famous Artist’s Palette in Death Valley National Park but with warmer hues. The endpoint of this trail is not the most spectacular viewpoint in the world. While the canyon overlook views were nice, I would argue that the trail itself is the true attraction here.

Near the canyon rim

Smoke from the wildfires in CA had made it to TX

The next day I hiked the popular Lighthouse Trail, a 5.7 mile RT trail with about 500 feet of elevation gain that crosses the desert towards a rock formation that looks like, you guessed it, a lighthouse. In contrast to the solitude found on the Rock Garden Trail, the Lighthouse Trail is pretty busy but thankfully never felt too overcrowded. I actually ran into a couple from Roanoke, Virginia, where I went to college; small world! For the most part, the trail was fairly flat and sandy as it passed by various rock formations and desert plants. Nothing awe-inspiring, but a pleasant walk nonetheless! I got a glimpse of the famous Lighthouse a few hundred yards out, but I didn’t quite grasp its size until I had scrambled up the steep slope to stand on the rock bridge right next to it. It really was a spectacular site and I enjoyed a nice lunch sitting on the slabs of rock nearby, watching families and Instagrammers alike take their turn at posing in front of the structure.

The Lighthouse

View from the rock bridge by the Lighthouse

After completing that hike, I finished out the day by searching for some unmarked but easily accessible caves that nature carved into the sides of the rock walls. These little caves were the highlight of the trip for sure! It was so fun to pick my way through and explore what felt like my own secret hideout. It did get incredibly dark in some sections so a light source was essential. Be sure to download a map like AllTrails so that you can find these caves yourself.

On the way to the cave

Climbed to the top of a cliff (not the cave)

Cave entrance

Climbing to the back of the cave leads to this view

All in all, Palo Duro Canyon State Park is definitely worth a stop on any road trip across Texas; I would even recommend going out of your way to experience it. It’s unique and surprising in a state known more for its wide open skies and tumbleweed than it is for its natural spaces, and accessible enough that people of all ages and abilities can enjoy it. Completely exceeded my expectations!