Cedar Breaks National Monument

Located near Cedar City, Utah, Cedar Breaks National Monument is known for its colorful geological amphitheater. The origin of how this monument got its name is quite interesting. The Southern Paiute called the area U-map-wich, which translates to “the place where the rocks are sliding down all the time.” The name given to the area by the Southern Paiute reminded me a bit of German nomenclature in which the name pretty much describes the object or place (like handschuh for gloves). The name given to it by the early pioneers - now the official name of the monument - was slightly less accurate. When traveling through, they mistook the Bristlecone Pine trees for cedars. They also referred to the area as “breaks” - another name for “badlands” - due to the difficulty in traversing the terrain. Thus, “Cedar Breaks” was born.

The defining feature of the monument is the amphitheater, not unlike that of Bryce Canyon. However, while Bryce Canyon is famous for its hoodoos, or pillars of rock, Cedar Breaks is known for its thin walls of rock called fins. Geologically, Cedar Breaks is a bit behind Bryce Canyon in that eventually, these fins will erode into hoodoos. After hiking in Bryce Canyon, it was pretty cool to get an idea of what it looked like back in the day.

The monument itself, while visually stunning, is fairly small and can be “done” by most visitors in a half day. When I went in late October, the monument was in its shelf season between the closure of the Visitor Center and the inevitable closing of the park roads due to heavy snow. So while I was unable to stamp my passport or pick up a park brochure, I was able to experience the park in relative peace and quiet, a stark contrast to the nearby National Parks with a capital “P.”

By the Visitor Center, there is a short trail that leads 0.1 mile to the beautiful Point Supreme overlook that shows off the beautiful colors of the amphitheater below. If you’re wishing to go further, there is a paved, ADA-accessible trail that leads another mile to the Sunset View Overlook. While I didn’t hike this particular trail, I’ve heard it’s lovely. If you’re not up for hiking, you can also drive to Sunset View and walk about a hundred feet to the overlook.

There are a couple of other good options for hiking, including the 2 mile trail to Alpine Pond, but I chose to walk along the rim from the Visitor Center to Spectra Point for a roundtrip total of about 2 miles and 400 ft elevation gain. This windy trail does have the potential to be dangerous; in some spots the trail is quite narrow and one misstep while distracted by the sunset oranges of the formations below may cause you to become one with them. Okay okay it’s not that bad, but parents, I would definitely keep an eye on the kids for this one.

While the view doesn’t change dramatically along the trail, what really makes it special are the features along the way. As I walked along, I was treated to close-ups of the amphitheater’s walls as their colors melted into sherbet oranges, pinks, and yellows.

One of the other defining features of this trail, and the park in general, is the presence of the ancient Bristlecone Pines. These twisted trees are the oldest known non-clonal organisms on Earth, with the oldest being 5000 years old! While the park’s trees are not quite that old, some are around 2000 years old. The simple fact that these trees are so ancient is mind-blowing enough, but taking into consideration their tendency to survive in harsh environments at high altitude makes it even more incredible. But the reason they are able to live so long is actually due to these harsh conditions. The combination of cold temperatures and high winds plus the tree’s slow growth rate allows the wood to become dense, thus providing it with resistance to all the things that normally harm trees, namely, erosion, insects, rot, and fungi. To stand next to a living organism that has been there for thousands of years before me and will likely continue on for thousands of years after was incredibly special.

Anyway, enough about trees. It took me a bit longer than expected to reach the turnaround point at Spectra Point, partially because I kept getting distracted by the views and partially because I had to take a slight detour to pee in moderate seclusion. There is a medical reason why one has to pee more frequently at higher altitudes, but since I already rambled about Bristlecone Pines I’ll spare you the details. The overlook is basically a section of cliff that juts out into the amphitheater and provides a wonderful panorama of both the formations and the views in the distance.

Now if you’re wanting to extend your hike, you can continue on to the Ramparts Overlook which will add another two miles and 400 feet elevation gain to your adventure. For me, I was getting a bit trail weary after a busy week of hiking and decided to head back. Overall, while this monument is small compared to some of the other parks and public lands in Utah, I think it is worth a stop on a road trip through the state.

Park Tips

- Check the park website for road conditions as the roads can be closed due to snow for months at a time.

- Want to visit in winter? Bring your snowshoes or skis and have fun!

- For the best lighting, I’d recommend going in the afternoon to avoid the sun washing out the colors.

- This would be a good side trip from Zion or Bryce Canyon.